Israeli textiles between tradition and innovation: exhibitions, call for papers and conference

In the world of materials, the field of textiles stands at a fascinating intersection of material, culture, and innovation. On one hand, textiles are an intimate and everyday material, one of the first developed by humankind, embodying countless rich traditions and cultures. On the other hand, the technologies and techniques of the textile world deeply integrate material properties with design and computational processes, reminiscent of, and even forming a basis for, modern computers. In the current era, textiles are used in the most advanced industries and applications, from sports shoes and architecture to the aerospace industry. But at the base of it all are fibers and threads, fabrics and structures. These days, two important and fascinating exhibitions are being presented, focusing on central chapters in the history of textiles in modern Israel: the exhibition dedicated to the legacy of Ruth Dayan at the Beit Ha'am (Community House) in Moshav Nahalal (closing: May 10, 2025, details here ) and the cluster of contemporary exhibitions at the Herzliya Museum of Contemporary Art (closing: June 28, 2025, details here ). Visiting these exhibitions invites a journey of exploration following the story of textiles in Israel – from a central branch in shaping its young identity to contemporary expressions of innovation and creativity, revealing the great richness and beauty inherent in the field. No less important for those involved in the field, Tel Aviv Culture De Vinci recently opened a textile lab and published an open call for an artist residency in the field, and the Department of Textile Design at Shenkar is celebrating its 55th anniversary with a conference to be held on May 6, 2025, alongside a sale-exhibition of works by the department's alumni throughout the generations. Details further in the article. Ruth Dayan in Nahalal: Pioneer of Israeli Textiles " Melékhet Machashávet " (Artful Work/Skillful Craft) - the exhibition about the founder of "Maskit," Ruth Dayan, presented in Nahalal, is much more than a historical display. It is a contemporary dialogue with the world of a woman who charted a significant vision for the development of the textile field in Israel. Dayan's vision focused on integrating craft techniques and traditions, reflecting the diverse cultures comprising the local society, to create a new Israeli identity and language. The exhibition presents traditional and contemporary textile works by creators (male and female), as well as several works in wood, glass, and ceramics, all speaking a language that is both local and universal. The works interestingly and movingly combine aesthetics and the creators' personal expression, displaying impressive material and technological richness. The exhibition also includes a section dedicated to Dayan herself and her work at "Maskit" , and it spans two floors of the building. The unique venue of the exhibition, the Beit Ha'am of Moshav Nahalal designed by architect Richard Kaufmann and built in 1930, enriches the visitor experience and deepens the understanding of the connection between Ruth Dayan's vision, the materials and techniques used at "Maskit," and the geographic-cultural context of the period. Herzliya Museum: A Broad Canvas of Local Textiles The Herzliya Museum of Contemporary Art is currently presenting a cluster of exhibitions examining the local textile world from various angles. The exhibitions feature works by established and contemporary artists and designers who delve into the material, traditional techniques, and the innovative potential inherent within it. The exhibition "Textile–Art–Textile: Perspectives on Then and Now" lays out a broad canvas of local activity in the textile field, connecting independent creators who operated, and some still operate, at the seam between artistic and industrial creation, among them Naora Warshavsky, who was the chief textile designer at "Maskit." It is particularly interesting to observe the exhibits that include sketches and work plans, allowing a glimpse into the computational aspect present in textiles. One can trace the line of thought connecting the plan, the material, the machine, and the technique through to the final product, thereby understanding the value of knowledge acquired through experience and handwork. The exhibition "Ziona Shimshi: Fabric Patterns in Her Handwriting" presents the creator's unique style as expressed in silk prints of geometric-organic shapes in rich colors on fabrics that covered, wrapped, and decorated many homes in Israel. Moving items previously known as curtains, lampshades, or wall decorations to the museum walls allows for a renewed observation of the colorful compositions and a focus on the details produced by the technique. The exhibition "Structura: Weaving in Israel, from Functionalism to Fiber Art" presents large-scale works demonstrating how creative-artistic thinking can stretch boundaries and enrich a limited system of materials and techniques. Moving to the exhibition "Fatma Abu Rumi: Close to Herself" momentarily creates a sense of contrast, from physical textiles to images of textiles in painting. This is the only exhibition in the cluster dealing with the connection between textiles and the human experience, through the creator's personal-cultural interpretation. The connection between the exhibitions enhances the emotional impact of her works, which can be jarring. The exhibitions "Eternal Spring: Mambush Carpet Weaving Workshop, Ein Hod" and "Gur Inbar: Thread from Material" open and close the cluster, offering a thought-provoking dialogue between the recent history of creation and the textile industry that flourished and faded in Israel, and the work of one of the contemporary designers active in the field. Towards the end of the visit to the Herzliya Museum, one encounters the visiting project "Ba'ari Plot," pots with living plants surrounded by sooty roof tile fragments collected from the kibbutz, telling the stories of families from Kibbutz Ba'ari through the homes that remained after October 7th. The plot, the tiles, and the textiles all tell a story of life, home, and hope for renewed growth. Opportunity for Learning and Creation: Call for Textile Creators and Professional Conference As part of the cultural and artistic activities of the Tel Aviv-Yafo Municipality, Tel Aviv Culture De Vinci opened a textile lab a few months ago and now offers a unique opportunity for a three-month research-material based artist residency in the summer of 2025. This is an invitation to create, research, and present your work in a supportive and respected cultural center. If textiles are part of your practice, it is recommended to check the details of the call and apply here (application deadline: May 6, 2025). Concurrently, the Department of Textile Design at Shenkar, which next week marks 55 years of existence with a professional conference , continues to be an important center for study and creation in the field, nurturing a new generation of successful designers and creators. The conference also marks the opening of the exhibition " Bad Bevad " (Fabric by Fabric / Simultaneously), which will be displayed from May 5-7, 2025, bringing together about 100 works by alumni, both veteran and young, of the department. Among the various media in the exhibition, one can see works using techniques of digital printing, hand embroidery, quilting and embroidery, printing on various types of fabrics, Tibetan wool tufting, wool knitting, Jacquard knitting, woven wax threads on a brass frame, and much more. The works presented in the exhibition are original textile creations offered for sale by the designers and artists. 40% of the proceeds from the sale of works from the exhibition will be donated to support rehabilitation and recovery centers in health institutions through activities involving textiles, led by the Department of Textile Design at Shenkar, and 60% of the proceeds will go to the creators. The Journey of Textiles in Israel: From Proud Roots to Renewed Growth The exhibitions in Nahalal and Herzliya tell the story of the development of the textile field in Israel, connecting the manufacturing industry, artistic creation, culture, and identity. In its early decades, the local textile industry was an economic and cultural pillar and a source of pride, bringing together diverse textile traditions with a local vision. Companies like "Maskit" and "Ata" are testimony to this success. Despite the changes that have occurred over the years, the spirit of Israeli textiles is still alive. Companies like Tefron, Nilit, and Delta continue to innovate in the field of advanced textiles, and despite the difficulties , hundreds of sewing workshops and textile studios also operate in Israel, producing everything from unique fashion items and exceptional one-of-a-kind textile pieces, through tallitot (prayer shawls), to military and tactical clothing and equipment in medium and large series. In a world becoming increasingly digital and detached from the physical senses, the importance of textiles and tactile intelligence is only growing. Textiles have always held a strong connection to culture and the human experience. The touch, texture, and feel of fabric evoke rich sensory experiences and connect us to physical reality. It is no coincidence that there is a fascinating historical link between the first weaving looms and the development of computers – both are based on principles of code and patterns. Perhaps it is no accident that precisely at this time, when we are experiencing a crisis and reprocessing questions of Israeli identity, many exhibitions focusing on local textiles are emerging. They remind us of the material and cultural richness inherent in Israeli weaving throughout the generations and invite us to reflect on its future.